The Foot Onsen.

On a hill above Izuhara there is a park whose name I do not know. It looks away from the city, out eastward over the sea.

Walking to it from the road one passes through a parking lot where one is guaranteed, regardless of the season or time of day, to see someone sitting in their car smoking cigarettes. Out of curiosity, you might as you go about your business in the park, glance back occasionally to see when the smoker will finally emerge from his car and at least stroll the hundred feet to look out at the view. You would be wasting your time though because this species of park-goer will never emerge. As you leave later you will suddenly realize that the car simply disappeared at some point.

Also in the parking lot is one of the ubiquitous vending machines. It offers among other things: a handful of varieties of canned coffee, a product attractively named Pocari Sweat, a whole row of different bottled green tea varieties, canned aloe/white grape juice (with chunks of aloe), and of course the American fingerprint Coca-cola.

On a level below the parking-lot is the park itself. On its perimeter stand various metal structures whose apparent purpose is as exercise equipment. They each have little signs with a stick figure doing the appropriate exercise. Many are familiar: the push-up, sit-up. Yet there are some whose purpose is unfathomable to the Western eye, either because they seem physically impossible or because they are so easy it is hard to see how anyone might become fatigued doing them. If one is lucky they will be present when one of the park's older users is present. These geriatric wonders show up occasionally to preform amazing feats of strength and flexibility. It is possible that with their accumulated wisdom they might know how to use some of the more mysterious metal contraptions.

At the heart of the park though is a foot onsen. This a small pool, a foot and a half deep, surrounded by seats. The pool is fed by hot spring water. Sitting here one can look out at the sea beyond, and the ferry and fishing boats as they approach Izuhara port. On many days the mist is too think to see very far out. Yet there is a certain pleasure to watching the thick rolling mist glide along and pass among one, chilling the face.